What is cashmere, why is it so valuable, and how to identify a fake?

2024 Author: Priscilla Miln | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 00:21

Every woman knows what cashmere is. But not everyone can buy a really high-quality thing from this material. Cashmere yarn is not cheap. Why? What is cashmere made from? Why is this material so valuable? Why is every fashionista happy to update her wardrobe with cashmere?

Soft Gold

This is what cashmere is called in China. Sophisticated inhabitants of the Middle Kingdom know a lot about such things. Manufacturers of the best silk in the world to the question: "What is cashmere?" - answer: "It's soft gold!" Things made from this material are weightless, very soft and surprisingly warm. It is also important that, unlike wool, cashmere lies very gently on the skin, absolutely not irritating it. Well, tell me, what fabric can combine so many advantages at once?

Cashmere is…

This is where you really should stop. It is very important to understand what cashmere really is. Unfortunately, in some dictionaries it is referred to as "a light woolen or cotton fabric of asparagus weave." ActuallyIn fact, this characterization is not entirely correct. Speaking about what cashmere is, it should first of all be indicated that this is not wool, but down of mountain goats, and of a certain breed. There is no talk of any cotton fabrics at all. This fluff is plucked from goats in the spring, after minutes of winter cold. Animals are not sheared, but are processed with a special pinch. This is done only once a year. One goat can give at most 200 grams of valuable down (usually 100-120 grams). Moreover, the donors of "soft gold" are very capricious and do not want to live anywhere. They like Mongolia, China, Afghanistan and Iran. Attempts to breed them in other countries were unsuccessful - the quality of the undercoat turned out to be rather low. In order to knit one medium-sized sweater, you need fluff from five to seven animals. A voluminous cardigan will require five to six times more.

Characteristic

He who knows what cashmere is understands why it is so expensive. There is a big misconception that this material is needed only for winter walks. Cashmere has a very high thermal insulation capacity, so things made from it are comfortable in terms of warmth. The fact is that cashmere fibers retain air two to three times more than other fabrics. The fiber almost does not accumulate static electricity, therefore it does not collect dust and is less polluted. Have you noticed that goats are almost always clean? It turns out that the scales that cover the fibers of the cashmere thread prevent the deep penetration of dust particles. In addition, they repel water. Only water vapor can be absorbed. This is explained by the presence of a waxy fatty substance on the fibers, which is not removed even after dry cleaning.

Some consumers say "rolling" is a quality issue. This point of view is also erroneous: cashmere yarn cannot help but roll. A knitted item made of this material should be thin and soft. To maximize this quality, you need to “raise” thin fibers. This measure allows you to achieve both softness and smoothness of the layer. Otherwise, the top layer will be dry and rough. Therefore, do not be surprised at the appearance of pellets as a result of friction. Perhaps this is the only drawback of cashmere. In addition, it is easily removed either with fingers or special machines.

Price categories

What is cashmere and why is it so expensive, we found out. Now let's figure out why the prices for things from this material vary so much. It turns out that the whole thing is in the so-called fineness, or the thickness of the fluff. Conventionally, two categories can be distinguished:

1. Pashmina. Down of the highest quality, no more than 15 microns, several times thinner than a human hair. It is used for the production of the finest shawls, the cost of which is from 15,000 rubles to several tens of thousands.
2. Cashmere. Down thickness up to 19 microns. Sometimes it is called half pashmina. Retail price from 2-3 thousand rubles. The determining factors here are color and thickness. The natural colors of this down are grey, black, brown and white. The most expensive down is white. It paints better and muchsofter.

If you saw a shawl for a couple of thousand rubles (or a little more), then most likely it is made either of wool or with a small amount of cashmere. The cheaper product is made from either acrylic or viscose. However, some sellers put “cashmere” prices on such things, hoping that the buyer will not distinguish a fake. How not to fall for such a bait?

Learning to identify a fake

1. Cashmere faded. It is quite difficult to paint over it (we already wrote why above). Any dye applied to the down becomes smoky, i.e. fades a little. If you are shown a bright thing that has a clean, juicy color, be sure: you are being deceived. Either it is not cashmere at all, or another fiber (polyester, wool, silk) is added to the product. Of course, the seller may object by saying that white fluff was used. However, even in this case, the color would not be bright! Most manufacturers really add up to 10% silk to pashmina and cashmere. This is done to refresh the product, give brightness and improve wear.
2. How to find out about the supplement? Along with real fluff, if you look closely, another thin and denser thread is noticeable. This is acceptable, so you should not refuse such a thing, especially if you liked it.
3. Pay attention to the haze. If there really is cashmere in the composition, you will see gossamer-thin fluff fibers. It is they who create a slight haze on the surface.
4. Squeeze the fabric. Hold it for a few seconds between your palms. Provided that thisindeed cashmere, you will feel noticeable warmth. Down not only retains, but also enhances warmth.
5. Note the lack of gloss. This is a must for pure cashmere: it must be matte! Shine indicates the presence of additives.