Plain weave: types of fabrics

2024 Author: Priscilla Miln | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-01 17:06

Our grandmothers and great-grandmothers sewed their own wardrobe, and could tell us a lot about a variety of fabrics. They already knew a lot about what materials it is better to make a dress or a blouse from. Most of the ladies in those days did an excellent job of making home textiles: bedding sets, curtains and tablecloths. They not only perfectly sewed all these household items, but also decorated it with embroidery and other decorations.

Mass passion for sewing is a thing of the past. Now this occupation can be classified as a hobby - you will meet it infrequently. Few women can talk about what kind of fabric they have in their hands.

The textile industry amazes modern fashionistas with an abundance of new products. Fabrics are becoming high-tech and multifunctional. However, they are usually based on schemes and techniques developed a century ago.

What is plain weave?

Plain weave is one of the main types of fiber combination patterns. It is with the help of this textile technique that a large number of types of fabrics are produced from various natural and synthetic fibers. Other types of weaves are obtained by various variations orcombinations of their main types.

The nature of the weave determines not only the appearance of the fabric, but also its mechanical, physical and technological characteristics. In order to understand the issue of fabric formation, let's first analyze the basic textile concepts.

Basic textile concepts

The longitudinal threads are called the warp, and the transverse threads are called the weft. In the structure of the fabric, they are intertwined and form an overlap, indicated in weaving patterns by the symbol n_F . The main crossing n_FO is the place on the front of the fabric in which the warp fibers are located above the weft. In the weft overlap n_{F Ythe opposite picture is observed. Here the warp threads lie under the weft threads.}

Weaves in textile business are usually denoted as a scheme, which is presented in two colors. The warp threads are in the vertical rows, and the weft threads are in the horizontal rows. They are arranged in a certain order and form one or another type of crossing. Dark-colored cells are used to designate the main floors, and light-colored - weft.

There is a certain order in schema parsing. The warp threads are counted from left to right, and the weft threads are counted from bottom to top. In drawing up and reading schemes, the concept of rapport R is used. This indicates the number of overlaps of weft and warp fibers, which alternate at a certain interval. Rapports make the production of fabrics simple and straightforward. There are rapports of weaving on the warp threads R_o and on the duck R_Y.

Also in the compilation of weaving patterns there is the concept of shift S. This term refers to the number of threads by which a single overlap is removed from a similar one. There is a vertical shift S_o on warp and S_{Y on weft.}

How is plain weave made?

Plain weave, the scheme of which is the simplest, is characterized by such an order in which the weft and warp threads intersect with each other in every second successive overlap. This means that it has the smallest possible rapport.

Therefore, it is believed that the plain weave of threads is the primary source of all modifications of weaving patterns. It was according to these rules that the first materials were made by our ancestors.

There is a certain rapport that characterizes plain weave. Its scheme is described in the form of formulas:

• R_O=R_{Y=2 strands;}
• _FO=n_FY=1;
• S_O=S_Y=1.

Plain weave fabric, in which the warp thread has a much thinner thickness in relation to that of the weft, is called false rep. In this case, a transverse scar is formed. Experts attribute it to a variety of weaving called weft reps. According to this type of weaving, such types of fabrics as cotton taffeta and poplin are formed. A simple plain weave serves as the basis for creating a variety of textileproducts based on a variety of natural raw materials: cotton, linen, silk, wool and other fiber sources.

Cotton fabrics

Cotton fabric, in which the weave is plain, is very widely used in the textile industry. There are several types of such textiles, which are discussed in more detail below.

Coarse calico

It is also called burmet or paper canvas. This fabric can be produced in the form of a harsh unfinished fabric, it can also be bleached (linen), dyed or printed. The composition of the calico can contain both cotton threads and artificial fibers.

Canvas fabric is used in the modern textile industry in the manufacture of bed linen. Coarse calico has good wear resistance, withstands a large number of washes. Canvas fabric has many advantages:

• Excellent hygienic qualities.
• Hypoallergenic.
• Sustainable.
• Easy.
• Low wrinkle.
• Long-term preservation of the brightness of the picture.
• Affordable price.

It is these qualities that make it possible to produce high quality everyday and luxury bedding sets from coarse calico.

Chintz

Refers to light cotton fabrics and can be plain dyed or printed. Chintz is made from calico by dyeing and finishing manipulations. Usually the density of this fabric is 80-100 g/m2. Chintz is used in the textile industry for making bed sheets.underwear, shirts for men, as well as for light outerwear.

Baptiste

This fabric is particularly thin and translucent. The raw material for the production of cambric is both cotton and linen. This plain weave fabric is made from the finest twisted fiber of high numbers. Batiste can be dyed, bleached, mercerized and printed. Usually this material is used for sewing underwear, light dresses or blouses. Batiste also serves as a semi-finished product for the production of tracing paper.

Mitcal

This rugged plain weave cotton fabric is composed of coarse, unbleached fibres. Most often, calico has a certain grayish tint. It serves as a semi-finished product for the manufacture of other fabrics and materials. If the mitcals are processed in the necessary way, then you can get linen products (muslin, madapolam) or chintz. Also, various oilcloths and leatherette are obtained from this raw material.

Flannel

This type of fabric can be made from either cotton or wool, or a combination of both. Flannel has a rare bilateral or one-sided fluffy bouffant and therefore saves heat well. It is soft and pleasant to the touch and can be bleached, dyed or printed.

Flannel has its drawbacks: it rolls off when worn for a long time and, due to its high hygroscopicity, dries for a long time. This fabric is great for demi-season clothes and for baby diapers.

Poplin

This type of fabric is double-sided, one-coloror patterned. Poplin forms a plain weave of a thin warp and a coarser, rare cross weft. The result is a small scar, which is characterized by a high warp density, which is 1.5-2 times higher than that of the weft. Poplin can be bleached, printed, multicolored or plain dyed. It has a lot of advantages:

• Keeps its shape well.
• Its surface is pleasant to the touch.
• Thermostatic and hygroscopic.
• High wear resistance.
• Affordable price.

Due to these qualities, poplin is widely used to create bed linen, as well as for men's and women's shirts, towels and other products.

Taffeta

This fabric, which uses a plain weave, is thin, dense, and has a glossy finish. Taffeta is made from tightly twisted fibers, and not only cotton is used, but also silk, as well as synthetic threads. Traditionally, this type of fabric is used for sewing evening and wedding dresses, costumes for rhythmic gymnastics and various consumer goods.

Linen fabrics

Linen - the fabric is quite hard and dense. It has a smooth surface and a matte finish. Linen fabric does not stretch well, especially when wet, its fibers do not intertwine with each other.

This material is little polluted, does not form pile and is highly hygroscopic. Linen is a fabric that perfectly supports natural heat dissipation.human body and therefore excellent for tailoring. In the textile industry, several types of fabrics are made from this material using the plain weave method:

• Bolt - a dense fabric designed for the manufacture of lining elements of outerwear.
• Canvas is a heavy fabric made of thick linen thread, which is distinguished by its special density. It repels moisture and is highly durable. It was used to create sails, as well as for tailoring water-repellent and specialized clothing. If this fabric is impregnated with a fireproof, water-repellent and antifungal compound, you get a tarp.
• Linen is a smooth linen fabric that has a shiny surface and is used to make dresses and suits.

Silk fabrics

Silk is a very expensive and delicate material. It has long been used for tailoring the toilets of noble people. Later, with the invention of artificial silk, clothes made from this material became available to everyone. In the manufacture of fabrics from natural and synthetic silk threads, a plain weave type is also used. Basically, a variety of crepes are made in this way.

This type of fabric is made from high twist fibers in the left and right direction with a certain alternation. This treatment of the threads gives them elasticity and provides increased shrinkage of the fabric. The fabric acquires a finely rough texture.

The main advantage of crepe fabrics is their excellentdrape combined with a slight wrinkle, which makes them ideal for making evening dresses for women and men. Plain weave silk fabric comes in the following types:

• Crepe de chine has a moderate sheen. It is relatively thin, but at the same time quite dense. Crepe de chine is made from silk fibers in the warp, and crepe torsion threads are used as weft. Woolen and polyester fibers can also be used in the fabric. Crepe de chine is widely used for sewing evening and wedding sets.
• Crepe-chiffon is an airy thin translucent fabric with a pronounced relief structure. It can contain both pure silk and synthetic threads. Crepe chiffon is used to make summer clothes and accessories.
• Georgette crepe is distinguished not only by its thinness and transparency, but also by its elasticity. The texture of the fabric is pronounced. Georgette crepe is used for sewing light toilets, shawls and scarves.
• Crepe-maroken is distinguished by the presence of a strong twisting thread at the base. It has a pronounced relief structure and is made from threads of natural silk, viscose, and wool. Moroquin crepe is mainly used for tailoring suits.

Wool fabrics

Woolen threads are also subjected to plain weaving to form separate types of fabrics, the main of which is cloth. This fabric is notable for the fact that on its surface the threads are so knocked down and intertwined that all the gaps between the fibers overlap.

Thus, the fabric becomes like felt. Wool cloth comes in two types:

• Army is made with strict adherence to technology and is used to create clothing for the military, as well as for some workwear.
• Urban has some differences in technology. It is softer and thinner, has a large variety of colors.

The cloth lays well and does not move when cutting, does not crumble on cuts, and withstands ironing well. However, this material wrinkles with use, may shrink, and may not wash.

As you can see, the plain weave of threads in the fabric has given rise to a huge variety of unique and inimitable materials that modern housewives use for sewing clothes, bed linen and other household items. Years pass, epochs change, but many of the foundations laid by our ancestors still remain relevant to this day.