2024 Author: Priscilla Miln | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 00:21
A coat in our time should be not just warm and comfortable clothes, but also be a beautiful and original element of the wardrobe. Let's try to understand what a modern coat fabric is, what requirements designers place on it.
If earlier winter and demi-season robes were considered women's wardrobe items, now you can see this kind of outerwear on men in harsh winters, rainy autumn and even on a hot summer day! Coat fabric with pile is relevant in the cold season, cotton is a summer hit. After the appearance of duplicating materials, the technology for making coats changed significantly, the amount of manual work significantly decreased, and many operations associated with the creation of outerwear became automatic. Modern equipment allows coat fabric to be turned into finished products in just 4-8 days. Glueless technology is used when sewing premium products. For such models, cashmere overcoat fabric is mainly used, the cost of products is from $ 1,300, the time spent on tailoring increases by 3-5 times.
To get the perfect quality coat, it is important to choose the right material, lining, and insulation forfuture element of outerwear. Let's analyze the basic materials that are currently used in sewing men's coats. Before you go to the store to buy coat fabric, you need to study the rules for choosing it.
For sewing men's warm clothes, a lot of different fabrics are used, which have increased wear resistance, as well as good heat-shielding characteristics. Currently, coat fabric is classified into women's, children's, and men's fabrics. There is a division according to the seasons into demi-season, summer, winter materials. To a greater extent, overcoat fabric is required when sewing demi-season and winter products. The most stringent requirements are imposed on the heat-shielding characteristics of demi-season coats, which do not require the use of special heaters. Winter has an additional insulating layer under the top.
Coat fabric, which is chosen for the manufacture of winter products, in addition to heat-shielding qualities, should be beautiful, light, and have good water-repellent characteristics.
How are coat fabrics classified?
Materials are made from different raw materials and, depending on the structure, are divided into:
- wool fabric (in its pure form, almost never used lately);
- coat cotton fabrics;
In turn, coat wool is further subdivided into:
- worsted;
- fine cloth;
- coarse cloth;
- fine cloth drapes.
About modern coatsmaterials
Coat wool fabrics are now available in a wide range. They are most often used when sewing demi-season and winter models.
Quality Italian coat fabrics have managed to gain popularity in the Russian market due to their excellent external qualities and technical characteristics. For example, worsted Italian fabrics can be pure wool, that is, contain more than 90% natural strands, or semi-woolen (contain 50-90%). Among all-wool, boucle, beaver, gabardine, tweed are leaders.
What is gabardine?
Gabardine is a fabric with a diagonal weave. In the production of gabardine, twisted yarn is used. Such fabrics are loose, rigid, suitable for sewing women's and men's summer coats. When creating gabardine, modern manufacturers use material treatment with special water-repellent impregnations, which increases the performance of this type of coat fabric.
What is a boucle?
Boucleé is a coarse plain weave fabric made from fancy yarns that has large knots either in the warp or in the weft, giving a knobby texture. Part of the boucle is created from twisted yarn in weft and warp, finely patterned weave is used. It is not resistant to mechanical damage, any puffs, elongated loops will spoil the external characteristics of this material.
What is tweed?
Tweed is a fabric that has a melange effect, as well asrough characteristic surface. It is comfortable and pleasant to wear, UV resistant, elastic, moth resistant. It owes its name to a river flowing through Scotland.
Alpaca
Alpaca coat fabric is highly valued, as it has excellent performance characteristics. Warm clothes made from such wool are pleasant to the touch, have increased wear resistance, and are not capable of causing allergic reactions. As practice shows, it has medicinal characteristics, and therefore is recommended for people with joint problems.
What is a beaver?
Beaver is a dense and stiff woolen fabric with a standing short combed pile on the front side of the fabric.
Camel wool - vigon
Camel hair is the down or undercoat of an ordinary one-humped camel. Many manufacturers do not color this material, then it has a light brown color. Vigonya is usually called a material made from llama wool, common in Latin America. The raw materials are combed out, the animal is not trimmed. Coats made from this fabric are characterized by increased strength, softness, and excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
Worsted Wool Mix
If the fabric contains not only natural wool, but also contains nylon, lavsan,nitron, they are considered wool-worsted coat fabrics. An example is cashmere. This chic, refined, expensive material is made from the undercoat of cashmere goats, the down is plucked by hand (because of this, the price is so high).
Raw cashmere has several threads, the average thickness of which is 13-20 microns (2 times thinner than a human hair), and therefore, after touching, you can feel softness. This material perfectly retains heat, practically does not cause allergies, slightly dirty. The highest quality and most expensive cashmere down is produced in Mongolia and China. Among the disadvantages of the natural version, one can mention the appearance of pellets during wear.
Fine coat fabrics
These are semi-woolen and all-woolen fabrics, which are used in the manufacture of single and apparatus twisted pure wool yarn. They are created with a finely patterned, twill or plain weave. The leading positions among the group are occupied by cloth and drape.
Drapes are considered heavy fabrics that have a significant fold, so their surface is covered with a felt-like covering. There is a pile on the front side, this is how the wrong side and the front side of the material are distinguished. Currently, manufacturers offer drapes in one- and two-layer versions, with a combined or simple weave.
Among fine-woven drapes, flacon, ratin, and velor should be noted. They are also often found in stores, but they are significantly inferior in popularity to those described above.
It is worth noting that store shelvesalways filled with many coat options. This situation is quite understandable. So, for example, the price of a mobile phone may differ for the cheapest and the most expensive by several dozen times. Similarly, in the situation with the choice of material for the manufacture of coats - someone can afford branded cashmere tailoring, and someone will prefer most of the cheaper options, given the main property - warmth in winter. Of course, expensive fabrics retain heat better, but sometimes this improvement is not worth the overpaid money - take a closer look at high-quality, but at the same time affordable coats, which you can buy several for the same money.
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